Production of hand cream with Oenothera biennis L. oil and antioxidant properties assessment

Abstract

Introduction. Hand skin is exposed to daily damage by environmental factors. Studies have shown that regular use of hand cream reduces water loss, skin roughness after each washing [2]. However, choosing a hand cream, it’s important to draw attention to its composition because the negative impact of dermatological products is associated with fragrances, coloring agents and preservatives (parabens) [1]. The usage of essential oils is an alternative way to resolve microbial contamination. Most of them are effective, at a lower concentration than 5% [3]. Evening primrose oil used externally treats skin dehydration, has anti-inflammatory properties, regenerates, nourishes and softens the skin, its emulsion (O/W) improves atopic eczema condition [4], reduces UVB-induced hyperpigmentation, a bleaching effect is observable [5]. Materials and methods. Evening primrose oil, cocoa butter, Olivem® 1000 (INCI: Sorbitan olivate, Cetearyl olivate, Italy), distilled water, lavender and grapefruit seeds essential oils. Small quantities of hydrophilic phase emulsifiable into lipophilic, maintaining same phase temperature mixed using an automatic stirrer 2 min at 500 rpm and 10 min at 1,200 rpm. Preservative was added then cooled at room temperature. The stability of designed hand creams were carried out by centrifuge test (15 min at 3000 rpm, 24oC). Sensory evaluation test was applied, assessment criteria: appearance, odor, spreadability, penetration into skin, texture properties, acceptability of the use (received LSMU Center for Bioethics approval- No.BEC-FF-424). Measured pH values, viscosity of selected creams, homogeneity evaluated under a microscope with Motic® software (400X), shear rated by texture analyzer. Antioxidant activity determined by spectrophotometer (ʎ 518 nm) using DPPH • reagent, test sample dissolved in ethanol (1:10). Stability of storage was evaluated in climatic cabinet (30°C, humidity 70±5%) f [...].