From Student’s Idea to Innovation: Dual Action Encapsulated Dermocosmetics Developed at LSMU

A new skin care product line with its eye-catching bottles filled with coloured capsules has been created at the Lithuanian University of Health Sciences (LSMU). The unusual, highly aesthetic encapsulation and packaging approach enables the release of the active ingredients preserved in the capsules only when the dispenser is pressed.

Indeed, the products stand out for their effective combination of active ingredients, encapsulation technology or playful dispenser-activated release. The fact that adds uniqueness to the line is that the author of the idea is a fifth-year student of Pharmacy at LSMU, and she worked together with the LSMU researchers throughout the process of development of the new product line. 

An eye-catching innovation

The three-product routine line based on dermocapsule and spherulite technology has already attracted interest at fairs and presentations. The product line covers the whole daily skincare routine: from deep cleansing to skin regeneration and protection. The unique appearance of the gels comes from the “bubbles” created using the advanced dermocapsule and spherulite technology that preserves the active ingredients up until they are released during the application, making sure that they remain active at the contact with the skin.

According to Professor Jurga Bernatonienė, Head of the Department of Drug Technology and Social Pharmacy at the LSMU Faculty of Pharmacy, dermocapsules could be compared to microscopic containers protecting the active ingredients contained within from external influence, such as light, oxygen, or interaction with other ingredients.

This approach is very practical as many active ingredients tend to lose efficacy over time. Research has recently demonstrated that the encapsulation technology increases the stability of the ingredients, promotes faster delivery into the skin, and boosts the overall effect. Spherulites – a different kind of microparticles – act as reservoirs or can even be compared to a cleaning system, as their porous structure absorbs the excessive sebum or impurities from the skin surface.

Science-based formula: discover the capsules within

“Upon pressing the dispenser, dermocapsules and spherulites are delivered onto the skin surface. The As the product is gently spread or massaged into the skin, the capsules break down mechanically, releasing the active ingredients at that very moment. These ingredients remain fresh within the product and are activated only upon application. This ensures a fresh, targeted effect that conventional skincare often cannot achieve,” explained Prof. J. Bernatonienė.

Each product has its specific function. Acmella Carbonia with carbon spherulites acts as a smart skin cleansing and detox system by removing impurities and excessive sebum without damaging the skin. Acmella Lumina with silver-coloured dermocapsules improves the skin tone by reducing pigmentation thanks to the tranexamic acid, while the ceramides also contained within strengthen the protective skin barrier.  Acmella Aurea with gold-coloured dermocapsules has been developed to boost skin regeneration and glow. The peptides, plant stem cell extracts, ceramides, and moisturising complexes in the product help improve skin vitality and elasticity.   

Prof. J. Bernatonienė has also emphasised that the products rely on the consistently and carefully formulated composition rather than a single component. For example, the Spillanthess acmella (also  known as the toothache plant for its numbing proprieties) flower extractprovides natural firming effect and helps reduce the expression lines. The Helichrysum italicum (more commonly known as the Immortelle) extract has a calming effect on the skin and promotes skin regeneration. The effect of these plant extracts is boosted by other active ingredients ranging from barrier-strengthening lipids to intensive moisturising components.  

“It is not a single component but their combination and delivery technology that makes these products unique. The active ingredients act in synergy, and the dual encapsulation technology makes sure that they are delivered onto the skin at the moment of their peak efficacy,” the Professor has noted.

From idea to product: challenges and victories

Globally recognised  as a cutting-edge solution, encapsulation technologies have not yet become mainstream in skincare. Moreover, the combination of dermocapsules, spherulites and science-based active ingredients in a single system at this technological level is an essentially new approach in Lithuania and marks clear transition from traditional skincare to science-based skincare solutions.

“Although the first attempts almost never succeeded in the course of development, the repeated attempts and consistent search for the optimal technological solutions proved to be effective, which eventually lead to success,” said Urtė Bernatonytė, the author of the idea behind the products and a fifth-year Pharmacy student at LSMU, describing the process. She not only came up with the idea but also carried out most of the development process.

Having developed an interest in dermocapsule technology, the young researcher explained that her aim was to create a product that would be distinctive – one that people would want to use every day and that would immediately catch the user’s attention. For this reason, she chose a gel format: within its transparent texture, dermocapsules and spherulites become visible, giving the product a unique appearance.

Developing the final product from the initial idea, optimising the formula and preparing it for production took around two years.

The greatest challenges the young pharmacist encountered were related to the process technology. For instance, in order to ensure product stability, she had to abandon the idea of incorporating an essential oil into the gel, as it was observed to cause the dermocapsules to break down. Considerable time was also required to select safe and gentle preservatives, as well as an appropriate viscosity for the gel base to prevent the embedded dermocapsules and spherulites from settling during storage. Additional challenges arose for the LSMU Pharmacy team when adapting the formula for larger-scale production, as it was necessary to adjust equipment parameters to ensure that the dermocapsules were not damaged during mixing.

U. Bernatonytė notes that, in developing cosmetic skincare products, the knowledge of pharmaceutical technology and pharmacognosy acquired during her studies at LSMU, as well as the experience shared by Prof. J. Bernatonienė, proved invaluable.

“I am delighted that LSMU provided the opportunity to apply theoretical knowledge in practice, from initial gel formulation trials in the laboratory through to the production of final products at the LSMU pharmacy. Without the efforts of the LSMU pharmacy team, many of the subsequent stages of bringing these products to market – from adapting equipment for industrial gel production to product registration, packaging selection and design, and label production – would not have been possible. I would like to thank the entire LSMU Pharmacy team, especially Director Mantas Jurkonis and Production Coordinator Jolita Stabrauskienė, for their effort, patience and dedication in bringing this idea to life,” said U. Bernatonytė.

Soon available at the LSMU pharmacy

Looking ahead, the future pharmacist plans to continue exploring innovative dermocosmetic formulations and to seek new solutions for improving gels and creams.

The technology behind the new products has already been transferred to the LSMU Pharmacy, and the products themselves have been officially notified. This means they comply with all safety and quality requirements applicable to cosmetic products. Final organisational steps and market launch preparations are currently underway, and customers will soon be able to purchase these products at the LSMU Pharmacy.

According to Prof. J. Bernatonienė, collaboration with the younger generation of pharmaceutical specialists is always both inspiring and rewarding.

“After establishing the ‘Pharmacy of the Future Scholarship’, I became convinced that students are not only curious but also exceptionally creative – they think boldly and are not afraid to look for new solutions. Today we have a result that is already being introduced to the market, which, in my view, is the best proof of the immense potential of the younger generation when they are given the opportunity to create,” she said with a smile.